It’s always a joy to see where Eudon Choi’s globe-trotting imagination will whisk us away to each season. Beginning partly as a product of the pandemic, Choi’s past few collections have been infused with the spirit of an ever-growing list of exotic locales, from the heights of the Swiss Alps to the sun-baked coast of southern Italy. This time his roving eye turned to Brazil and the pageantry of the Rio de Janeiro Carnival—specifically as seen through the lens of French director Marcel Camus in his 1959 Palme d’Or–winning movie, Black Orpheus.
“I watched the film a long time ago, but coming out of the pandemic, I feel like everyone’s gone a little crazy,” said Choi with a laugh. “I wanted to do something that celebrated community through this story of young lovers.” Of course, given Choi’s ever-present emphasis on wearability, his interpretation of the visual feast of the Brazilian celebration was far from literal. Instead it shone through most brightly across the kaleidoscope of colors woven through the collection, from shimmering tangerine to punchy blues and greens. The Brazilian influence also showed in dresses and shirting in floral prints featuring hibiscus and ipê flowers abstracted through painterly strokes of indigo blue. “I wanted it to feel sun-kissed and carefree,” said Choi.
On the more muted end of the spectrum, standout pieces included a brown striped pattern on cotton voile inspired by Brazilian menswear and a trench coat in ivory with a detachable shawl (or scarf or belt detail, depending on how you want to wear it), also featuring sleeves that could be buttoned above the sleeve strap to open up like calla lilies. It’s this alchemical ability to put an unexpected new twist on a classic piece without drifting into novelty that has become Choi’s signature. As ever, his clothes showed off plenty of smart details that will make them brilliantly easy to wear, and they were a whole lot of fun too. See you at Carnival!
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