Marco De Vincenzo was appointed Etro’s creative director a year ago, but he says he’s not done with the learning curve yet. Finding the formula to appeal to a new set of customers doesn’t happen overnight—that youth elixir all brands are searching for is rather elusive.
Now that the wind has changed and bohemian shapes and billowy florals have been pushed aside in favor of pared-down minimalism, De Vincenzo has to come to terms with Etro’s raison d’être. For resort he tried to find a pragmatic middle ground between the label’s character—romantic, exotic, decorative—and his own design principles, which lean structured, kinetic, and graphic.
Keeping a focus on archival prints, he toned down their vibrancy—a pair of baggy denims in an over-dyed tapestry print was a case in point—while maintaining a certain visual boldness. The multicolor floral patterns on a white cotton trapeze dress, for instance, were given a Pop vibe and encrusted with cut-out appliqués for a 3D effect. Plain saturated colors and pastels were also introduced, lending the collection a laid-back rhythm.
De Vincenzo is partial to a clearly defined silhouette; fluidity isn’t really his thing—considering that he’s a talented leather goods designer, this isn’t surprising. But here he tried to somehow relax. “I let go a little,” he conceded. “It’s only in the synthesis between my approach and Etro’s that I feel authentic. Etro has so many codes from which you can draw inspiration; it makes you feel somehow protected; but on the other hand my duty is to find new ways.”
Giving everyday staples a younger feel was the modus operandi; slouchy pants, roomy jumpsuits, padded shirts worn as light outerwear, and oxford poplin blouses with ample poet sleeves were offered in plain colors; they looked inventive yet realistic enough to spice up an everyday wardrobe. Prints were used for subtle pipings or as reversible linings, downplaying their impact, while openwork handknitted ensembles in psychedelic gradients hinted at the designer’s proclivity for kinetic art.
De Vincenzo’s idea of garden party or cocktail dressing veers more cool than dressed-up glam. For him, a bias-cut long skirt printed with trellises worn with an unfussy T-shirt and boots would do for festive occasions. Yet evening wear requires a bit more dash, so he offered some fluid dresses with scarves that wrapped the bodice or acted as asymmetrical foulard capelets. A standout was a high-waisted slip dress with a huge swirling skirt printed with eye-popping trellises. Even the coolest girls love to make a big entrance.
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