Elie Saab dubbed his resort 2024 collection “The Swan” in honor of the original specimen, Marella Agnelli. “I never knew her, unfortunately, but I know her grandson and lots of people who were around her,” the designer offered over Zoom from his home base in Beirut.
“She was a woman of rare style who left her mark on fashion with chic and lots of class. I’ve always been inspired by her allure and aristocratic poise.” From where he stands, he added, that kind of Italian elegance and art de vivre radiates all around the Mediterranean, touching a broad swath of his base.
Saab approached resort in three chapters, moving from an urban, structured mood to “more amusing” and, lastly, romantic pieces. While the collection could be neatly defined by a silk kaftan in pink-to-mauve ombré with a jeweled brooch closure, other offerings—such as a plunging ecru knit dress with gold-edged pleating—likewise could suit most any type of morphology.
Saab has been leaning in on daywear of late. Here, he showed off his tailoring skills with peplum tops and jackets in “moonshadow” white crepe, a sharp black trench or a cherry red tweed jacket with matching shorts. A white cotton shirt-kaftan with guipure reprising the brand’s insignia looked crisp and summery.
Nighttime, however, is where the designer’s heart is. Party rompers, beaded strapless midi dresses and gold lamé halter tops kept company with curve-hugging black jersey dresses outlined with gold chains or quintessential, floaty gala gowns in sage green, aquamarine, or magenta. Even the embroideries the designer favored seemed restrained, cropping up in pale pink flowers and green stems on a bustier gown or a gold flower placement on a single-breasted midnight blue overcoat. Whether for day or night, the simplest looks were the strongest.
The resort collection, the designer noted, is “for women who travel, but with the same codes in a different way.” By the time this review is live, those customers will have a shiny new Elie Saab outpost to check out in Monte Carlo. That will be followed soon by another in Sao Paolo, just two instances of the brand‘s fresh push toward new horizons.
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