Peter Dundas is heading to Paris Fashion Week for fall 2023. Looking forward to being on the runway again—it’s been nearly four years since he showed his signature collection on the catwalk—he gave his pre-fall collection an elevated spin. Out went the Body Glove-ish bodycon knits and in came a more soigné mood. The lineup’s boudoir-ish atmosphere is partly down to the shoot location, the bedroom of Los Angeles art collector Eugenio Lopez, and to the sexy mien of his model Paris Jackson, but more so to Dundas’s instinct to use more black than usual. “My girlfriends are always asking, ‘can I have this in black?’” he said on a Zoom from his LA home base.
It pays to listen to your girlfriends. There’s longevity in a little black dress, whether it’s a long devoré velvet slip with Celtic tattoo motifs, or a “twinset” bustier and pencil skirt combo. Dundas also worked in red and white velvet, out of which he cut oversized suiting, and a single blast of fuchsia pink for a long t-shirt dress with a bare back. The squiggle print stretch jersey pieces are evocative of Keith Haring, but he said the lively pattern was actually lifted from a vintage Korean camo print. They were an outlier here. “I found myself taking things off more than putting them on,” he said. Dundas is too much of a sensualist to qualify as a minimalist, but this collection was the pre-Paris palette cleanser he said he wanted.
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