Creating the Costumes for the Charlatans, Hustlers, and Con Artists of Guillermo del Toro’s ‘Nightmare Alley’

Nightmare Alley is Del Toro’s homage to classic film noir, where a character’s alluring façade can mask ulterior motives. Take Dr. Lilith Ritter, a glamorous psychiatrist who attempts to expose Stanton as a fraud before getting tangled in his web of deception. She’s played by Cate Blanchett in full femme fatale mode, and her collection of stylish gowns and velvet capes reveals more about the character than any verbal description.

“Luis designed a reality with his costumes that reflect personality and help tell the story,” Del Toro says. “Leather, wool, embroidery—they all define character and integrate visually to a color and texture palette, seamlessly.”

Ahead of Nightmare Alley’s December 17 premiere in theaters, Sequeira shared some of his costume sketches with Vogue and spoke about bringing Del Toro’s sinister world to life.

Stanton “Stan” Carlisle (Bradley Cooper)

“Stanton goes through the biggest visual transformation,” Sequeira says of the Nightmare Alley protagonist. Whereas Gresham’s original novel and the 1947 film adaptation were more evenly focused on the ensemble, Del Toro’s take places Cooper at the center. “Everything he wears at the carnival is sagging and threadbare. He has a finite wardrobe, so we wanted to create a kind of capsule collection for that first part of the film: a couple of pairs of pants, some shirts, and a jacket. Then when we moved into the city, it was all about looking nouveau riche.”  

Molly (Rooney Mara) 

If there’s a conscience to be found among the Nightmare Alley ensemble, it’s in Molly, a carny who becomes a key part of Stanton’s con once they move their act to New York. While Stanton is out to fully reinvent himself both professionally and aesthetically, Molly is less sure about the sinister new world her paramour has pulled her into. That hesitation is reflected in her wardrobe, with Sequeira wanting to imbue Molly’s looks with a sense of youthfulness and naivete, as in a performance dress featuring a fluttery butterfly print.