Milan has taken a turn for the minimal. Cargo pants, ribbed knits, and slip dresses have dominated the runways in the first two days of shows here, as trends have started to take shape. But not at Colville. Founders Lucinda Chambers and Molly Molloy don’t concern themselves with trends, but in any case they’re too committed to artful prints, fluid draping, and collage-like assemblages to be persuaded by the umpteenth return of the ’90s.
Wearing the colorful patterns of their fall collection—they are their own best advertisements—Chambers and Molloy pointed out highlights for spring. There are asymmetric tops and skirts in lively stripes or color blocks; Chambers likened them to flags, an apt comparison for the sweeping but not impractical silhouettes. An array of flattering printed dresses showcased their verve for draping, one with blouson-ish volume on the bodice and a cape-like back, another with grand sleeves, which reappear on a Star Wars T-shirt that is part of their upcycling project. A third printed dress was finished with a twisting shoulder sash made from used and rehabbed puffer jackets. Knits are also part of the picture, and they too packed a graphic punch.
Walking into the brand’s Via Cappuccini headquarters is like stepping inside a kaleidoscope—it could make a maximalist out of just about anyone. But even women without the Colville designers’ magpie style can find something here. Their spring suit is cut in soft washed fabric, giving it a utilitarian bent and easy-wearing attitude.
That spirit likewise imbues their accessories. Colorful woven bags made by the Wayuu people of Colombia and raffia totes crafted by a community of female artisans in Madagascar are designed with an eye to practicality and user-friendliness. Achieving it-bag status doesn’t enter into the equation for Chambers and Molloy, and yet in a world of same-y designer handbags, Colville’s woven Cylinder and smaller crossbody have that it factor. The designers’ closeness to the product is what makes it so compelling and good.
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