Cinoh Tokyo Fall 2022 Collection

Takayuki Chino may be too young to have lived through the carefree days of hippie culture, but Cinoh’s designer understands its appeal. For spring, he explored the era’s flower children and their outdoorsy pursuits, topics connected to the season’s themes of rebirth and optimism. Fall found Chino holding onto those ideas but evolving them into something weightier. Just as the non-conformist kids of the ’60s ditched their flower crowns and became corporate leaders, Chino’s muses took on newfound maturity. The collection’s setting was en plein air, but the models weren’t interested in lounging. Ready to stomp into their next board meeting and take charge, they wore cool-toned turtlenecks with double-breasted coats, ice blue fur vests layered over black separates, and fringed caftans that swayed as they walked.

Cozy textures like distressed velvet and chunky cashmere knit added to the workwear’s versatility. When layered and styled with equestrian boots or two-tone flats, the pieces felt severe, at times sober, but it’s easy to imagine the individual elements broken up and worn casually. A cable knit cropped sweater is subdued when paired with high-waisted trousers and a ribbed turtleneck, but throw it on with jeans and sneakers, and it takes on a completely different mood.

Chino’s interest in sophistication is evident, but the designer hasn’t forgotten how to have fun. His playfulness came through in a series of separates detailed with a latticework of cutouts that drew the eye closer, and via pleats and pastels that enlivened key moments. Indeed the bursts of color served to boost Chino’s standouts. After all the neutrals, the pale pink of the tasseled capes and maxi-coats with artfully folded collars were impossible to ignore.

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