Christina Tosi has several self-described “subcategories” of cookies in her new cookbook, All About Cookies. After all, if there’s any person who could divvy up the dessert’s definition with such precision it’s the two-time James Beard award-winning pastry chef and CEO of the world-famous Milk Bar, the sister bakery to Momofuku.
There are sammies, which “are all about the brilliant realization that if you sandwich two cookies together with something sweet in the middle, nothing bad could possibly happen.” “Crunchies and crispies,” meanwhile, are all about delightfully over-baked goods, whereas “dense and fudgies” are all about the delightfully under. Then, there are “cookies that like to party”—big, bold treats that will make a statement at any bash. (If you’re wondering about the specifics, that section includes chocolate babka cookies, lemon poppy ribbons, and “hot tin roof” cookie cake.)
Pegged to the cookbook’s publication on November 1—which includes over 100 cookie recipes—Vogue asked Tosi why, exactly, she decided to write an entire book about this humble baked treat, as well as to share one of her recipes perfect for the holiday season.
Vogue: What made you want to dedicate a cookbook to this specific dessert, the cookie?
Christina Tosi: They’re what I first learned how to make, as a kid. They’re the reason I love making dessert. They’re also the format that, even off the clock, I go back to time and time again. I think that’s for a few different, really specific, and powerful reasons. There is this underdog spirit to a cookie; a humility to a cookie. They have a low barrier to entry. Most people don’t make cake from scratch at home, unless they’re really going for a big baking project. But baking cookies is a pretty low commitment, by and large, in the home baking arena.
And, I think, the sharing power of a cookie. You can stack a few cookies on a plate and bring them to someone; you can put a cookie in a baggy and leave it out for your mail carrier, or whatever it is. It’s a dessert that creates community, which is the emotional spirit of all the reasons I love to bake.
You mentioned that cookies are what really got you into the kitchen in the first place. A blessing for the rest of us, really.
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