Chandni Chowk’s iconic Ghantewala: The story of fall and resurrection – Times of India

I still remember that rainy day seven years ago when with a heavy heart I had written an article on the final closing down of the two century-old sweet shop at Chandni Chowk. “As the shop closed down, a crowd gathered, distressed, watching silently as workers removed the huge kadhais that churned out delectable jalebis, the giant trays that displayed the iconic ghee-soaked halwas, and gigantic greasy vessels that stored stacks of sweetmeats.” read the article.
Believing it to be the end of a legacy, the world moved on and the shop which is said to have served the Mughals was almost forgotten by the world. But then a few days ago I got a call from Pari Jain, the daughter of Sushant Jain, the 7th-generation proprietor of Ghatewala who had drawn curtains on this historical legacy in 2015. Pari told me that Ghantewala is back in business and this time with a makeover that’s going to last.
The legacy of Ghantewala
Established in 1790 by Lala Sukh Lal Jain from Amber, Ghantewala is believed to be the favourite sweet shop of Mughal Emperor Shah Alam II. It is said that the emperor named it Ghantewali Dukan because he could hear the school bells, near the shop, from the Red Fort. The shop is said to have been loved by the mutineers who assembled in Delhi in 1857 to dethrone the emperor. Their love for this shop is mentioned in Dihli Urdu Akhbar of August 23, 1857, which states: ” ..The moment they (the rebels) have a round of Chandni Chowk, and enjoy the sweetmeats of Ghantawala, they lose all urge to fight and kill the enemy.”

A glimpse from a set made of Ghantewala for a movie based on Chandni Chowk
For almost 230 years Ghantewala remained the favourite mithai shop of several Presidents, Prime Ministers, Bollywood actors, and international tourists. Jawaharlal Nehru, Morarji Desai, Mohammad Rafi, and Rajiv Gandhi, ordered sweets from here. B.R. Chopra’s 1954 film Chandni Chowk’s climax scene was shot right here.

The shop which had begun by selling the popular Rajasthani delicacy, Mishri Halwa, became famous for Sohan Halwa, Pista Barfi, Motichoor ke Laddu, Kalakand, Karachi Halwa, and even samosas, namkeens and kachoris. It had a clientele even outside India, with a huge variety of mithais being exported to the Gulf and other countries.
What led to the hiatus
“It had to be closed for reasons we couldn’t avoid, and it’s been a really tough time for us. While the closure was unavoidable, it’s worth acknowledging that legacies endure,” says Sushant Jain.

New beginnings
While all this time we thought it was the end of an era, the father-son duo were honing their skills to take the market head-on. Sushant Jain went to the UAE to undertake comprehensive training in bakery, patisserie, chocolate crafting, and the creation of Baklava sweets. Meanwhile, his son, Aryan Jain pursued a degree in hotel management to add more expertise to the business.

What makes it different
“Our hallmark lies in both the quality and purity of our offerings. This ethos resonates in our utilization of saffron instead of artificial food coloring, be it for Motichoor Laddoo or Karachi Halwa. Furthermore, the use of traditional ghee over vegetable oil or Vanaspati is a testament to our unwavering commitment to authenticity. Our guiding principle passed down through generations, is simple yet profound: What falls short of being suitable for our own kin has no place in the service of our clientele, ” says Subhash Jain.
Ghantewala is the story of success, failure, and lessons learned. Its legacy and its rise from the ashes like the Phoenix would remain an example to be imbibed by those who believe that when one door closes in life, there are other doors waiting to be knocked at and opened.