Despite recent-ish attempts at the contrary, Brandon Maxwell has come around to the idea that he’s a minimalist and he’s sticking with it. But “quiet luxury,” the fashion code word du jour, is the wrong way to put it. Maxwell’s clothes are plenty luxurious—he pointed out that 95% of the fabrics are Italian—but they’re not quiet. Rather, they’re sexy in a streamlined, aerodynamic way.
“Lately,” he said, indicating the way fashion is consumed on social media, “to be considered ‘design,’ it’s had to be a lot. That doesn’t interest me.” The first way he simplified things for resort is with his palette. There’s but two flashes of bright color, a tomato-y orange knit tank dress and another longer, narrow tank style in yellow, with a matching thick-ribbed sweater tossed over the shoulders. The rest of the collection is black and white, which lends it a uniform feel that’s intentional.
“There’s so much going on in my life,” Maxwell said, “I just prefer black and white.” He was referring to the press ramp-up to season 20 of Project Runway, where he’s a judge, and to his side project with Target, but a reduced color scheme is a client friendly move, too—it makes mixing and matching easier. In a creamy shade of white, that same thick-ribbed sweater would work just as easily with Maxwell’s jeans, which he cut with a dropped yoke, for a shapely silhouette.
The waist was an area of interest for him this season. Many of the looks are styled with cast metal belts, while others are punctuated with glazed leather belts with a molded curving shape that echoes the dropped yoke of those jeans. He also added a draped waistband to a long narrow skirt with a high center slit. And if you really want sexy, he also did a stretch jersey tank dress with peekaboo cut-outs up both sides.
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