“What we are doing is exploring the relationship of quiet volume, abstract shapes, and where it connects and disconnects from the body,” Helbers explained a few weeks ago during a Zoom meeting. The collection, he said, is “really about the joy and ease of dressing in architectural shapes and structures that flow.” For spring, that translated into quiet clothes that spoke loudly through the efficiency of their fit. Trousers with cutout details that expose the ankle, tunics with perfectly proportioned sleeves and seams that add life to the clothes even when they are hanging on a rack. Suffice to say that these are pieces that must be experienced in person. You want to touch them, pick them up and feel their weight, hold up a sleeve to see how the underarm drapes, run your fingers through the variegated ribs on densely knit dresses that remain light as air. Helbers loves to explore how to make garments with just one seam—a long black skirt with a thick waistband and a dart running across the back is a fantastic example of the practice. It will come as no surprise that he most recently helped launch The Row’s menswear collection and before that he was at Maison Martin Margiela and at Louis Vuitton under Marc Jacobs. He instinctively understands the powerful mix of strong silhouettes and beautiful fabrics. In his hands, a cream sleeveless tank with a slightly exaggerated shoulder is suddenly punk; in lilac, it’s futuristic.
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