Photo: Harold de Puymorin
Still, Narisawa’s explorations were less of a road map through pairing and more of a personal invitation to test the boundaries of the palate. One consistent element—beyond sheer creativity—was the Dom Pérignon Rosé 2009, which accompanied every course. In understanding the notes of this particular vintage, it becomes easier to apply Narisawa’s lessons at home, or to other rosé champagnes.
Dom Pérignon Vintage 2009 is a pinot noir assemblage—a word that means that it’s a blend of wines vinified from across the maison’s vineyards. Pinot Noir is actually the most widely planted varietal in the Champagne region and the grape is integral to many rosé champagnes. The 2009 helps to decode its mysteries further. As Chaperon says, “The fruitiness [of the 2009] is about a generosity, on the nose, of blackberries and raspberries. On the palate, there’s a creaminess.”
For pairing at home, the rosé’s berry flavors work well with zucchini, turnip, and other savory vegetables. This kind of effervescent creaminess pairs well with duck and even wagyu beef. On the other hand, when a rosé is lighter and freshly acidic, octopus, kale, cabbage, and pork belly correspond perfectly. For rosé wines, Chaperon says, it’s not just about pairing food but developing the whole context—from the lighting of a room, to the music being played, and even to the temperature of the liquid.
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