Welcome to the S&M world of Alfredo Martínez. The show’s first look had a Matrix vibe with a long black leather trench coat, black leather gloves, and wraparound sunglasses. The AM woman this season is fierce and glamorous, with bold jewelry and hair slicked back, and a mysterious attitude courtesy of the harnesses that subtly accessorized certain looks. “There is a lot from my childhood in there—I always got excited to see superwomen, heroes, women with power,” he said. His main inspirations were 9 ½ Weeks and a bit of Madonna’s Sex book.
The sexiness was clear in looks that paired shirts and tight patent leather pencil skirts with sheer black tights and stilettos. Minidresses, tailored suits, and night gowns in floral brocades delivered the sophistication the Alfredo Martínez woman is used to. For those chasing youth and rebellion, the exquisitely made strapless latex gown that closed the show mixed elegance and a defiant attitude.
Throughout, the body was emphasized with cinched waists, seen especially in looks made out of thin lace and printed spandex. The latter is a new material in the designer’s universe: “I never do spandex, and we did three dresses in the fabric. I’m glad we did.”
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