Alejandra Alonso Rojas Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Alejandra Alonso Rojas hosted her spring 2023 runway show at Verōnika, the upscale restaurant at the Fotografiska Museum on Park Avenue South. From the choice of venue to the chilled champagne and crisp cudités, the experience was all about the intimacy and elegance Rojas has continued to build over the years.

Rojas collaborated with artist Philippine de Richemont for the season. The opening look, a beautifully made corset featuring one of the artist’s prints paired with a rainbow fringe crocheted skirt, set the color palette and mood for the collection: Romantic, joyful, and uplifting. “I was thinking about the collection as a blank canvas,” Rojas said after the show, “she’s in movement, her body, her beautiful curves, so with Philippine we created this almost camouflage print of women moving and dancing.” Rojas was also inspired by ’90s models and portraits of them by the likes of Richard Avedon. In this context, her slip dresses and other silky sheaths felt even more special.

One thing that Rojas excels at is consistency. Silks and knits are her chosen medium, and season after season she explores different avenues to make them feel fresh. This time around, ombré dyes, prints, and crystals lifted her silhouettes and provided novelty within familiarity. But when she went to less explored territory, like an asymmetrical fringe cable knit sweater or a delicious dress with voluminous flair created by paneling on the abdomen, the collection found more grounding and fullness. Her knits remain one of her strongest suits—a navy blue crystal-embellished crocheted slip was particularly striking, and where she combined her silks and knits in the same place she found new ground to explore in the future. Novelty also came in the shape of silk trousers with side pockets, almost resembling cargos or jeans, which she said were informed by her desire to continue to give her multifaceted woman pieces to complete her wardrobe.

There’s opportunity here for Rojas to remain consistent while continuing to find places where her language translates; she certainly has the hand to do so.

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