Stand Studio’s Nellie Kamras imaginatively set out for Sunset Boulevard for her upbeat spring collection. “We’re still in the L.A. type of world,” said the designer in her Stockholm studio, by which I took her to mean, still in the thrall of the Y2K trend in fashion. A leather moto jacket and zippered mini in a Barbie-like shade of pink played into this.
It wasn’t just the color pink that brought Barbie to mind; there was a dress-up aspect to this line-up, which was filled with iconic looks in leather (real and faux) — like sailor pants, Western shirts, Motocross-inspired pieces, and Wild One jackets — for a colorful cast of characters. The designer cited the photographer Nadia Lee Cohen, who has transformed herself for a series of imaginary portraits, as one of her references. The palette harked back to the live-out-loud and ’80s.
One of the ways Kamras achieved the hedonistic vibe she was after, was through the use of kitschy prints like strawberries, and pouting lips that speak to the consumer culture and perhaps nod to Fiorucci’s fun graphics. Faux fur is a signature Stand Studio material, and for spring a monkey-fur style was worked into outerwear with a Kate Moss circa 2006 vibe, as well as an outrageously fun crop top paired with, what else, a miniskirt (note the sprayed edges). Of the crop top, Kamras says it “feels like it has been normalized somehow,” meaning fashion is soon to move on. In terms of investment pieces, a supple blue suede suit with just the right oversize slouch and flare looks sure to have more staying power than the Energizer bunny.
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