The Sukeina woman is going places and not just because designer Omar Salam decided to show uptown in a modern salon on Central Park South. Before bombastic runway shows were the norm, fashions were previewed in intimate settings, where editors and clients could connect with the designer one-on-one.
In the era of Zoom and FaceTime, it’s rare for creators and consumers to have actual face time, but Salam wanted to preserve the real-world rapport that has been integral to his brand from the beginning. “I keep telling my customers that this is a moment to engage in the playfulness and joy of life,” he says. “This [season] is a bit of a departure, shapes are softer, the rhythm is joyous, and Sukeina’s woman feels different. Of course, she’s still doing big things, but she’s having fun too.”
The season’s story was dubbed Hue, a word with multiple meanings that make their way onto the clothes. “You can define it as a color or a tint as in paint, but I loved the idea of it also representing humanity,” shared Salam. “The unity of all hues is what humanity truly ought to be, and the beauty of that concept moved me.” Salam’s exploration of the subject led to research on Bantu peoples of Sub-Saharan Africa and their distinctive traditional dress, the patterns of which inspired the lively shades that feature within the collection. “They take disparate pieces of fabric and merge them to create patterns that are a symphony of color,” he explained. “They just exude joy, but beauty is also a form of escapism and repurposing; a way to take things that others have perceived as valueless and transform them.”
In the past, Salam has kept his palette restrained, saving the bright color for monochromatic looks or color-blocked pieces that feature his signature weaving. There are several new propositions this time around, including semi-transparent tunics and matching pants, drop-waist dresses with playful pleats, and modish minis that would make Mary Quant proud. The sense of joy that Salam sought to create comes through, especially in the lookbook images featuring Coco Rocha.
Rocha looks like a flapper with her bobbed hair and knee socks, and that jazzy Roaring Twenties vibe reflected in the eveningwear. The mood is light with feathered embellishments decorating ballgowns and tuxedo dresses revealing a hint of thigh as she leaps off the page.
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