Boglioli Spring 2023 Menswear Collection

Anthony Del Tufo, manager of Boglioli’s outpost on Wall Street, said that May 2022 was to his knowledge the best performing month in the store’s history. “Over the last few years when we were open we had guys coming in and buying maybe one thing—because basically they wanted to get out of their apartments—but now they are coming in and buying six, seven, or more pieces. It’s really picking up.”

It’s easy to lose your perspective while covering menswear shows. After just a few days the directional dressing in and around them that keeps Vogue Runway’s street style features ticking over begins to feel almost mundane. After clocking a guy lounging by the fountain wearing nothing but his hair at Rick Owens recently, I barely paused a beat. But men’s dressing is a many-splendored thing: Boglioli appeals to a different niche entirely.

This youthfully-managed company’s expertise in light-touch tailoring and deep fabric research with partner suppliers including Zegna and Loro Piana means it is well-equipped to appeal to those who wish to appear unconventionally conventional. Richly matte garment dyed jackets in silk bourette, cashmere, and certified merino wool provide irreproachable formal facades while telegraphing a soupcon of discerning nonconformism. Linen and silk blend knitwear, patch pocketed linen shackets, heavier linen field jackets and almost weightless safari shirts in tightly spun cotton provide plenty of optional add-ons through which to expand your wardrobe. Del Tufo’s intelligence suggests that there are plenty of men out there who are motivated to do just that.

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