Lazaro Hernandez was modeling an oversized bomber at a pre-spring preview. “I want to get this for myself,” he said. Proenza Schouler aren’t pivoting to a gender neutral format, but 20 years in they are in their personal era. “It’s true to our our own style, it’s honest to us,” Jack McCollough said. For their fall collection, they created a mood board of all their favorite women, and rather than take it down and move on to another concept or set of references, they left it up as they began working on this season. Consistency and clothes for “real life” are their operating principles now. “It’s the same women in our hearts,” Hernandez said.
Chloë Sevigny doesn’t make a repeat appearance here, but the blazer she wore in the opening look of the fall show does, down to the clever zip along the center seam in back. Many of the pieces that walked that runway return in evolved forms: The strapless leather dresses with the folded-over necklines have now come in knit versions, easier to wear and easier on the wallet. The fluid chiffon pieces cut like scarf squares and fastened with rows of brass buttons have been rethought in barer versions; McCollough calls them “DIA Beacon dresses,” after the upstate museum, for their cool, graphic lines. And having had success with shearling outerwear, they gave a convincing faux fur coat a try (the material was made by a German teddy bear manufacturer, they reported), as well as luxe double-face cashmere.
Emphasizing consistency risks inspiring ennui, even in the “quiet luxury” moment we’re living in. Hernandez and McCollough worked to combat that by embracing color. The aforementioned strapless knit dress was cut in a shade of Yves Klein blue as vibrant as last season’s yellow shearling. And they chose a bold blueish red for a draped jersey dress with versatile ties that can be worn multiple ways. The dress that’s likely to catch most eyes, however, comes in black and white. It combines a black v-neck bias-cut midi-length with a gauzy white high-necked, longer-hemmed under layer. Real-life chic, as promised.
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