2022’s Best New Serums For Your Skin, According to Experts
Below, an expert’s guide to the best new serums for modern skin concerns:
Firming Serums
“Firming Serums are some of the most popular on the market,” says McLeod-Valentine. “The primary purpose is to restore lost collagen and elastin through the aging process.” As skin ages, its levels of collagen and elasticity drop while cell turnover slows down. “This is where your firming serums come in,” says Dale. “You want ingredients that are going to speed up your cell turnover (aka trick your skin), stimulate collagen production and hydrate your skin.” She suggests looking out for ingredients that have an impact over the long term, like retinol, peptides, AHAs & BHAs, and antioxidants. Internal reports show that Dior’s bestselling Capture Totale Super Potent Age-Defying Intense serum firms skin in just a week, Chanel’s new N°1 De Chanel Revitalizing Serum relies on the potent camellia flower for smoother skin in a month, and Macrene Actives, the derm-launched line, is a featherlight formula that lifts crepiness, boosts barrier function and evens skin tone.
Vitamin C Serums
“Vitamin C serums are the LBD of skin care; everyone should have one,” says Dr. Gohara.
Dr. Few, who launched his own version for both dry and oily skin types, agrees. “As a pillar of any highly effective skin-care ritual, topical vitamin C calms and cools the skin while providing a layer of protection from free radicals and environmental pollutants,” he says. “Arguably the most important ingredient to maintain healthy skin long-term, antioxidants work to neutralize aging free radicals like pollution, smoke, and the main culprit, UV rays.” He suggests applying it daily underneath sunscreen to stimulate cell oxygenation to revitalize and firm texture. REN’s clean formula also sports Sephora’s new Planet Positive seal of approval, while Bubble’s just-launched combination of vitamin C and niacinamide (designed to even tone and reduce scarring) recreates the TikTok-favorite skin cocktail in one under $20 bottle.
Hydrating Serums
“Hydration is the key to healthy skin, no matter what skin type or conditions you have,” says Dale. “Our body needs water, but because our skin is the last organ to reap the benefits of the water we drink, we have to apply it topically.” Dr. Gohara points out that once we reach our 40s, we start to lose hydration, making this a simple step that can make a significant difference in skin. “Due to serums’ ability to penetrate the skin and hydrate at a deeper level, they are often more effectively hydrating than some of the richest creams when used layered together,” she says. Youth to The People’s cactus-powered serum is gentle enough on skin to double as an eye treatment (more of those below), and Winky Lux’s clean Orchid Gelée Serum relies on a special orchid extract for intense moisture.
Retinol and Retin-Alt Serums
For resurfacing serums with retinol and retin-alt (alternative sun-safe retinol ingredients like bakuchiol), modern formulas make an effort to protect skin rather than strip it. Avène’s new RetrinAL serum, for example, uses bakuchiol that’s been clinically shown to visibly minimize the appearance of wrinkles and uneven tone. “Resurfacing serums are great when used in moderation,” says Velledor. McLeod-Valentine believes that all skin types can benefit from resurfacing serums, “especially skin that is over the age of 30, prone to congestion, suffers from sun damage, hyperpigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles,” though he warns not to mix them with physical exfoliants, and not to scrub your skin. “For clients looking to resurface their skin, or those who are wanting to prep their skin for future vitamin A use, I always recommend the Victoria Beckham X Augustinus Bader Cell Rejuvenating Power Serum,” he says. “Its smart TFC8 complex gently and efficiently speeds up cell turnover without irritation.”
Hyaluronic Acid Serums
“Hyaluronic is a glycosaminoglycan (a very large sugar) that occurs naturally in the body,” says Dr. Few. “Roughly half the hyaluronic acid in the body is present in your skin, where it binds to water to help retain moisture. As we age, the production of hyaluronic acid slows down and our complexion becomes drier and loses firmness. The right hyaluronic acid helps to increase moisture, diminish wrinkles and age lines. It also tightens, plumps, and firms the skin.” Modern formulations like Drunk Elephant’s B-Hydra Intensive Hydration Serum often visibly smooth skin on contact. “These types of serums draw moisture from the air and from the deeper layers of the skin,” says Dale. “That is why when using hyaluronic acid you want to make sure that you are sealing in that hydration with a good moisturizer.”
Acne Serums
“Acne is not something that comes from dirt, so do not scrub your skin!” Dr. Gohara insists. “Acne comes from increased oil production and hormonal triggers, which create the accumulation of bacteria and inflammation. Scrubbing and irritating, over-drying ingredients just stoke the fire.” She likes Avène’s Cleanance Concentrate Blemish Control Serum for its hydrating glycerin and thermal spring water that “helps to quell inflammation, so the skin barrier has a chance to heal.” McLeod-Valentine is used to clients requesting effective fixes for breakouts, and considers First Aid Beauty Fab Skin Lab Retinol Serum 0.25% Pure Concentrate his go-to. “The combination of retinol, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, colloidal oatmeal, ceramides, and vitamin E are the perfect cocktail to treat excess oil, restore balanced moisture within the skin, address free radical protection and soothe stressed skin.”
Calming Serums
“Calming serums are designed to do just as the name suggests: calm the skin,” says Dr. Few. “For consumers with sensitive, dry skin, a calming serum is an amazing addition to their daily skin-care regimen. The ingredients in a calming serum work to reduce redness and strengthen the skin’s naturally protective layers.” McLeod-Valentine likes The Organic Pharmacy Skin Rescue Serum, which he considers “a perfect soothing serum using tamanu and chamomile and hyaluronic acid.” The CBD in Brown Girl Jane’s Glow Serum works as an anti-inflammatory to soothe skin. Dale suggests looking for familiar remedies: “If you have really sensitive skin that tends to be a bit reactive, you want to look for soothing ingredients like aloe, arnica, calendula, colloidal oatmeal. These are ingredients that help reduce redness and inflammation.”
Brightening Serums
One of the most-requested categories of serums, brightening options are designed to break up pigmentation in the deeper layers of the skin to eventually brighten the surface. The process takes time. “Whenever you are using any kind of product to brighten the skin and address pigmentation issues, it’s critical to use sun protection—as the skin cells turnover, they are more vulnerable to UVB and UVA corruption,” warns Mcleod-Valentine, who points out that there are many ingredients, clinical and natural, that can brighten, including glycolic acid, lactic acid, azelaic acid, and licorice root. Murad’s new Correct & Protect Serum includes additional SPF protection, while EADEM’s milky (fragrance-free) dark spot serum has gained a cult following, and the secret to Ranavat’s ayurvedic formula includes saffron threads, which are believed to create a more even-toned complexion.
Night Serums
Your skin does some of its most important work while you rest, which means that night serums can provide valuable assistance during its busiest hours. “The skin regenerates itself at night, so when the proverbial factory is open is the time to use actives that will do work to increase collagen and eradicate free radicals,” says Dr. Gohara. “Beauty sleep means beauty sleep.” She likes Omorovicza’s Midnight Renewal Serum for its star ingredients like retinol to build up collagen, plus microalgae to decrease inflammation. Shikohin The Enlightening Night Serum is enriched with Japanese tremella mushrooms (aka hyper-moisturizing Snow mushroom), which are considered by some to be more powerful than hyaluronic acid.
Repairing Serums
“Everyone has the ability to keep their skin youthful and mobile with supportive care in the form of high quality products that protect and repair the skin,” says Dr. Few. Scarred skin can benefit from growth factors found in Symbiome’s The Answer Reparative Serum, which includes 50% stem cell conditioned media and regenerative peptides. Dr. Gohara likes the antioxidants in BareMinerals SkinLongevity Long Life Herb Serum as well as the formula, which she says “blends well, is easy to layer, and absorbs quickly yet leaves the skin dewy and very soft, all while being reasonably priced!” Her home remedy includes more of what comes for free: “Our skin naturally regenerates itself! Sleep well for healthy skin,” she suggests. “Disruptions in sleep can create spikes in cortisol, a proinflammatory hormone.”
Oil Serums
The oil serum is a great balance for anyone looking for a one-and-done approach to skincare. It can be layered, although it doesn’t always have to be if you ask the loyalists. Face oils have risen in popularity because they feel good on skin, serums are loved for their performance—together, they’re a very wearable combo. This ease of use is part of the reason that Vintner’s Daughter Active Botanical Serum became such a runaway success (and thanks to fans like Gwyneth Paltrow) for offering a do-it-all item to toss into a gym or carry-on bag. New oil serum formulas like Supernal’s Illumine Restorative version blend retin-alt actives like bakuchiol with antioxidants for a multifunctioning dewy skin drink.
Barrier Serums
The skin’s natural barrier is a force in itself, and smart serums protect it for a reason. “As we age, we lose ceramides, the building blocks of our skin barrier, starting as early as 20,” Dr. Gohara says. “Typology’s Lipid-Restoring Ceramide 1% has biosimilar ingredients which are ingredients similar to our natural skin composition—very efficacious!” SelfMade’s serum is formulated with plant-derived squalane to enhance skin barrier integrity, and marine plant extract to enhance moisture barrier function. “Our Secure Attachment Comfort Serum+ has been clinically proven to improve moisture barrier over time,” says Lee. She suggests avoiding alcohol as an ingredient altogether, as it “tends to be in products that ‘flash off,’ quick dry, or are cooling—it strips off your natural moisture barrier.”
Eye Serums
“The skin surrounding the eye area is thinner than the skin on the remaining parts of your face, so the products designed for eyes more often come in the form of light, fast-absorbing serums versus thicker creams,” Valledor explains. “In addition to having a thinner viscosity, eye serums are packed with higher-concentrated actives, with smaller molecules so they can penetrate deeper into the skin and address issues that are more common in that area like dark circles and puffiness.” Dale notes that the eye area can be difficult to treat, which makes these concentrated serums a valuable tool. “Ingredients in serums penetrate better than most cream formulations,” she says. For concealer-free brightening, Tru Alchemy Eye Elixir leans on light-diffusing tech and caffeine to reduce puffiness, and a watercress-infused gel serum by Farmaesthetics bottles 100% natural ingredients like arnica and cucumber.
Neck Serums
Much like the delicate skin around eyes, the neck requires similar care. Nécessaire’s new (and gone-viral) peptide neck serum has already pulled in five-star reviews praising its unscented formula and results visible in the weeks since its launch. Even in the short term, Dermalogica’s Neck Fit Contour Serum uses signature Flex Lift Contour Technology for an “invisible mesh” effect that visibly tightens. For the just-launched brand Beauty HAC, a rollerball applicator delivers clinical levels of vitamin C Ester and peptides to activate collagen to promote visibly firmer skin. In studies, 89% of participants reported a reduction in dark spots, while 98% noticed smoother texture after using the product.
Pregnancy-Safe Serums
Even with new innovations in pregnancy-safe serums, experts agree that you should still check with your doctor before starting any new product. “That being said, vitamin C and other antioxidants and peptides are what you should be looking for when shopping for pregnancy serums,” says Dr. Gohara, who suggests avoiding retinoids and beta hydroxy acids as a rule. McLeod-Valentine also suggests checking ingredient lists on your current routine as well. “If you use products with hydroquinone to treat pigmentation, this will have to stop, as your body absorbs a large percentage of the ingredient,” he says. “The Mutha No.1 serum is the perfect combination of hydrators, actives, antioxidants, and skin nourishers to leave skin conditioned, balanced, restored and protected!” True Botanicals includes chebula in its new serum (a favorite of Olivia Wilde, who works with the brand), a powerful ayurvedic antioxidant, to address multiple concerns like fine lines, skin tone, roughness, firming, and brightening. It’s also Made Safe certified, aka free of toxic chemicals and endocrine disruptors.
Blue Light Serums
There’s still research rolling in on blue light, though from what experts can see, there’s a chance that rays emitted from screens and certain light bulbs can photoage the skin, meaning it can break down collagen and create pigmentation. “There are two types of blue light: Blue light that comes from the environment, and blue light that comes from our screens. Both can be combated with serums that are high in antioxidants,” says Valledor. “Blue light has been pegged to break down collagen, so stem cells and ingredients that increase collagen production are good to incorporate.” Using a blue light-specific SPF is helpful, as well as layering serums that contain protective ingredients. The Feelist’s new Total Package Youth Protecting Serum protects against blue light and reports that after two weeks, 97% of participants who applied it twice a day saw reduced fine lines; 100% saw more luminous skin.
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